On the runway of the Celine Spring Summer 2026 show, the iconic Phantom bag makes a return after a face-lift
Fashion inspires fashion. Season after season, runways unveil styles that leave us wondering: Haven’t we seen this before? Such was the case at Celine’s Spring/Summer 2026 show, where the iconic Phantom bag made its return—familiar, yet reimagined in a “same, same but different” aesthetic.
First introduced in 2011 during Phoebe Philo’s tenure as creative director, the Celine Phantom quickly became a cult favorite—flying off shelves and racking up months-long waitlists. A larger, roomier evolution of the Celine Luggage bag released the year prior, it stood out with its dramatic side wings, structured leather silhouette, and sleek gold or silver hardware. Affectionately dubbed the “smile bag,” its front-facing zip and handle placement created the illusion of a subtle grin—an iconic design cue that only deepened its appeal.
Now, as the maison’s newly appointed creative director—and a former design director under Philo—Michael Rider knew he had a legacy to honour, and reawaken. For his debut collection at Celine, the unmistakable silhouette took centre stage: bigger, slouchier, and ever-so chic. It channels the spirit of the original, but with a more relaxed, nonchalant sophistication.
Rider amplified the iconography, exaggerating the Phantom’s signature wings while infusing the design with a sense of play. One reissued version takes the nickname literally, featuring a more exuberant “smile”—its front zip curving upward rather than running in a straight line.
In rich black, warm brown, and electric blue, the revitalised Phantom stands as a testament to fashion’s cyclical nature—what once was in vogue often finds its way back into the spotlight.
