Whether capturing the nuances of micro-seasons or pioneering cutting-edge precision, Grand Seiko’s approach to haute horlogerie is uniquely its own
As an avowed Japanophile—one who admittedly romanticises the country, its people, and culture a little too fervently—the idea that high-end watchmaking could be shaped by Japanese sensibilities feels revelatory. When I first encountered Grand Seiko’s timepieces in Japan nearly two decades ago, the brand was still a domestic secret. Everything I admired about horology—its reverence for tradition, ceaseless creativity, and deep well of craftsmanship—was suddenly reframed through a uniquely Japanese lens, where timepieces emerged that were, by turns, more nuanced, poetic, and precise.
It’s fair to say the secret has long since slipped out, especially following Grand Seiko’s international debut in 2010. That milestone, while strategic in expanding the brand’s global footprint, also marked the beginning of a remarkable creative renaissance. Its separation as an independent marque in 2017—stepping out from under the Seiko umbrella—unleashed a torrent of innovation that has since elevated Grand Seiko into the rarefied realm of modern haute horlogerie.
Precision and poetry
At Watches & Wonders 2025, Grand Seiko unveiled a trio of novelties that affirmed everything the brand stands for: technical mastery, lyrical design, and a quiet reverence for nature. From cutting-edge hybrid calibres that challenge the limits of precision to bold, bejewelled expressions of artistry, the showcase was a celebration of watchmaking in its most elevated form.
Leading the charge was the Spring Drive U.F.A., which is short for Ultra Fine Accuracy. The movement, Calibre 9RB2, is Grand Seiko’s most precise to date. While its standard Spring Drive movements are already regulated to within +/-20 seconds a year, this new calibre narrows the margin to an astonishing +/-10 seconds—surpassing the previous benchmark set by Calibre 9R65 in 2004.
While the technical feat is impressive in its own right, the watches housing it are equally compelling. The SLGB001 and SLGB003, both from the Evolution 9 Collection, offer distinct expressions of the same mechanical prowess. The former, limited to 80 pieces, features a 37mm platinum case and a dial in deep frost-blue, inspired by crisp winter mornings in Japan’s Kirigamine Highlands. The latter is rendered in High-Intensity Titanium with a bracelet to match, offering a sleeker, sportier aesthetic with a dial that echoes the same poetic landscape in silver.
For connoisseurs who appreciate spectacle and substance in equal measure, the SBGD215 Spring Drive 8-Day Jewelry Watch is nothing short of mesmerising. Crafted by the artisans at the Micro Artist Studio and limited to just eight pieces, the watch dazzles with over 600 diamonds and black spinels set into a dial inspired by a lion’s mane emerging from the shadows. Grand Seiko’s first pave-set case in platinum is sculpted to catch light from every angle, while the in-house Calibre 9R01 powers the timepiece for a full eight days thanks to its triple-barrel design.
On the other end of the spectrum lies the SBGW323 from the Heritage Collection—a masterclass in understated elegance. Encased in a compact 36.5mm stainless steel case, it features a soft purple dial inspired by the kiri flower, the official bloom of Iwate prefecture in spring. Combined with Grand Seiko’s Mount Iwate dial pattern, the result is a design that’s refined and quietly evocative. Within ticks the manual- winding Calibre 9S64, offering a 72-hour power reserve and old-school charm.
Completing the quartet is the SLGC007 Tentagraph, a fresh take on Grand Seiko’s high-frequency automatic chronograph that debuted last year. Powered by the high- beat Calibre 9SC5, it beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour for heightened precision and delivers a 72-hour power reserve.
Its 43.2mm titanium case frames a snow-blue, two-layered dial inspired by Mount Iwate in winter, with black subdials evoking the mountain’s ridges beneath the frost. The watch is not only a technical powerhouse, but a modern silhouette crafted for everyday performance.
From delicate minimalism to opulent brilliance, the Grand Seiko novelties presented at Watches & Wonders 2025 remind us that Japanese watchmaking is more than a craft—it’s a philosophy that doesn’t just measure time, but interprets it.
This story first appeared in the August 2025 issue. Purchase it as a print or digital copy, or consider subscribing to us here
