Robb Reports: Avant les Débuts, the collection marking the debut of Alessandro Michele at Valentino

By Amos Chin 18 June, 2024

The Valentino Resort 2025 collection, dubbed Avant les Débuts, heralds a new era for the brand and creative director Alessandro Michele

Since his appointment at Valentino, Michele’s debut showcase for the Maison has become one of the most eagerly awaited events in the fashion calendar. In an unexpected yet exhilarating move, the celebrated designer unveiled the collection months ahead of its scheduled debut in September. Through an exclusive Zoom call with a select group of editors, Michele presented the expansive series of more than 170 looks.

According to WWD, Michele “instinctively decided” that the Resort 2025 collection deserved its moment of glory before hitting stores this October. “It was against nature to keep the collection under wraps,” he stated. Aptly named “Avant les Débuts” or “Before the Beginning,” the collection preludes Michele’s debut show, set to take place as planned during Paris Fashion Week this fall.

Earlier this week, the Maison made the full collection public; 171 images, alongside a lookbook dedicated to accessories, showcasing Michele’s distinctive and eclectic design aesthetic.

Key design cornerstones such as maximalism, vintage revival, layering, texture, and gender fluidity are vividly brought to life in this series. Michele’s eclectic mix of references is also prominently featured. A prime example is a men’s ensemble defined by a houndstooth tweed overcoat layered over a poplin collared button-down and straight-cut trousers. And of course, Michele’s looks are never complete without accessories; the top-down is complemented with a honeycomb-printed headband, contrasting red gloves, and a Valentino tote. Michele’s ethos of “more is more” shines through.

In the women’s ready-to-wear collection, Michele’s vision of romanticism and bohemian style intersects with Valentino’s iconic design codes, featuring flowing silhouettes, ruffles, pearl necklaces, lace, and delicate fabrics as the focal points.

Rather than overhauling the fashion house’s image, Michele flirts with the line of tradition and innovation–finding a perfect balance; creating fashion that is both deeply rooted in heritage and forward-thinking.