A varied selection that includes hot dress and sports watches from Breguet, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer, and more
April presents a bumper harvest for watch lovers. Fresh drops by all the watch brands that matter at Watches & Wonders 2025 are enough to make our heads spin. From nostalgia-inducing sports watches from TAG Heuer to a stately and sublime dress watch from Patek Philippe, this month’s round-ups add to our ever-growing list of favourite timepieces from the fair.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P
Word among my collector friends? This one’s a low-key grail in the making. Patek Philippe’s latest take on the Calatrava, the new Reference 6196P-001, nails the art of understatement. Housed in a 38mm platinum case, it sports an opaline rose-gilt dial, faceted white gold markers, and anthracite-coated dauphine hands that practically glow against the backdrop. It’s everything you want in a Calatrava: timeless proportions, impeccable finishing, and a movement that’s as sharp as the design is pure.
A discreet small seconds at six o’clock keeps the look sharp and uncluttered, all while honouring the ethos of “form follows function.” Inside, the manually wound Calibre 30-255 PS delivers serious performance with a 65-hour power reserve and stop-seconds precision. A slim case profile, bevelled bezel, and a tell-tale diamond at six o’clock round off the details collectors live for.
Breguet Classique Souscription 2025
Next, a surprise launch by Breguet, a brand that didn’t exhibit at Watches & Wonders 2025. The storied marque that bears the name of arguably the greatest inventor in watchmaking history celebrates its 250th anniversary this year. Watch aficionados had been waiting in anticipation for a commemorative timepiece and Breguet didn’t disappoint, delivering a beautiful dress watch that befits and articulates the brand’s legacy in equal measure.
The Classique Souscription 2025 reimagines Breguet’s late-18th century Souscription pocket watch, a fuss-free and reliable timepiece, which required down payment to be made and, as a result, helped lay the foundation for Breguet’s business expansion. The modern-day interpretation is encased in a proprietary gold alloy, outfitted with a gorgeous grand feu enamel dial, decorated with subtly lovely ornamentation, and powered by an elegant yet robust hand-wound movement. Read more about the watch here.
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph
Solar-powered and drenched in retro-inspired garb, TAG Heuer’s new Formula 1 Solargraph collection is a proper trip down memory lane. Inspired by the iconic Formula 1 collection from 1986, the new versions brim with the original’s dynamism, and are full of colour and capriciousness.
The watches come in nine different options—each sized at 38mm (as opposed to the 35mm cases of earlier models)—and feature the ultra-efficient Solargraph movement that harnesses sunlight for near-limitless power. True to its motorsport DNA, the collection blends nostalgic nods with progressive upgrades, accentuating the design of the vintage models while equipping them with new materials such as a lightweight new TH-Polylight bezel. If the choices appear overwhelming, we recommend that you focus your attention on the six limited edition models in striking colour combinations—black and red; black and yellow; blue and black; white and green; white and red and, our favourite, the green and red edition.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms in steel
The diver’s watch that rewrote the rulebook is back. Back in 1953, before dive watches were even a category, Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms was already laying down the blueprint: a unidirectional bezel, anti-magnetic protection, extreme water resistance, and a dial you could actually read underwater.
Fast-forward to today, and it’s still making waves—this time with a polished steel case that catches the light just so. The new 42mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique stays true to its roots but adds extra gloss, thanks to a sunburst black dial and domed sapphire bezel. Powering it is the trusty calibre 1315, delivering a five-day reserve and magnetic resistance, all topped off with a gold rotor you can admire through the caseback.
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Sunny-Side Up
Independent watchmaking never looked so delectable. The appropriately named Pioneer Centre Seconds Sunny-Side Up serves up all manner of high-end watchmaking treats, from technical oomph to alluring aesthetics, to satiate our desires for a funky yet refined dress watch.
Clad in a 40mm steel case, this jaunty piece features a yellow fumé dial that practically radiates good vibes, framed by a white rubber strap ready for everything from the beach to the office. Inside beats the HMC 201 automatic calibre, promising a three-day power reserve and a winning view through a sapphire caseback. As always, H. Moser’s penchant for details shine through: faceted indices, leaf-shaped hands, and a sunburst finish that’s pure energy.
