Breguet, Zenith, Hublot, and Longines bring horological heat in the month of May
Whether you are in the market for a stately wrist statement or something more utilitarian and practical, this crop of watch releases runs the gamut of style and functionality. From bold revivals of heritage designs to quiet statements of sophistication that reward a second glance, these are the pieces that caught our eye in May.
Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035
Another month, another hot drop from Breguet. The legendary watchmaking house shows no signs of holding back on its 250th anniversary celebrations with the compelling Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035.
A limited-edition stunner, this elegantly proportioned 38mm watch revisits Breguet’s revolutionary roots, gleaning inspiration from the brand’s Souscription and Tact watches—featuring external hands and markings placed around the case that allowed the time to be “read” by touch—from the late 18th century. First introduced in 2005, the Tradition collection is distinguished by the movement’s exposed mechanics and architectural symmetry on its dial, which frames its off-center time display. Here, this 250-piece limited edition is sheathed in Breguet gold—a proprietary alloy developed for the brand’s anniversary—and features a translucent blue enamel dial (another signature Breguet colour), engine-turned in a specially developed Quai de l’Horloge motif.
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar
Zenith gives the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar a celestial twist this May. Channelling its astronomical roots, the watchmaking house, which commemorates its 160th anniversary this year, pairs one of its most mechanically rich models with a striking deep-blue lapis lazuli dial that makes every piece subtly unique.
The shimmering dial with unique gold-coloured pyrite inclusions, set against silver sub-dials and a moonphase at six o’clock, echo the model’s namesake inspiration. Housed in a 38 mm steel case, which features a silhouette drawn from the iconic A386 design from 1969, the watch is powered by the high-frequency El Primero 3610 calibre—a movement capable of measuring 1/10th of a second and boasting a 60-hour power reserve. The triple calendar display is clear and intuitively laid out, while a sapphire case back offers a glimpse of the signature star-shaped rotor and blue-coloured column wheel.
Hublot Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day Power Reserve
Is it really hip to be square? Hublot stretches our perspective on the ironic phrase further with yet another disruptive offering. The Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day Power Reserve takes its moniker literally with a tourbillon wristwatch that isn’t merely housed in a square case, but supported by a movement built entirely around straight lines and right angles.
A watch of many firsts, the Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day Power Reserve is the first in the collection to feature a movement composed entirely of square bridges, a 3D carbon case, and a tourbillon. The 42mm case frames a fully skeletonised, manual-winding in-house movement with generous 96-hour power reserve. The watch’s rigorous symmetry certainly commands attention: the tourbillon sits at six o’clock, the power reserve at nine o’clock, and the winding system at three o’clock—each component meticulously designed and engineered to emphasise the square form. With its distinct geometric harmony, this timepiece is arguably Hublot’s most architecturally astute creation yet.
Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925
Longines continues to prove that heritage isn’t just about looking back. The new Spirit Zulu Time 1925 celebrates a century since the maison’s first dual-time wristwatch, reimagined in a refined 39mm steel watch with a beautiful rose gold bezel.
A proper travelling companion, the new Spirit Zulu Time 1925 is equipped to track three time zones. This is done via a separate hand that works in tandem with the bi-directional rotating bezel with 24-hour markings. Meanwhile, to ensuring that you cross continents without skipping a beat, the watch’s in-house automatic movement is COSC-certified for top-notch precision and promises up to 72-hour power reserve. Complemented by a steel bracelet and double-folding safety clasp, the commemorative watch comes with an open case back— a first for the Zulu Time collection—which showcases a rose-gold-coloured PVD rotor with a special engraving of a planisphere, with the Prime (or “zero”) Meridian running through its centre.
