The Fifty Fathoms Ref. 5007 delivers Blancpain’s legendary dive watch design in a refined, unisex 38mm case
Designing an iconic watch is difficult. Reinterpreting one is harder. So when a watchmaker arrives at a truly defining piece, the temptation is often to leave it untouched. For decades, Blancpain has largely followed that approach with its revered Fifty Fathoms. First introduced in 1953, it was the world’s first modern dive watch—pioneering features that have since become industry standards: a unidirectional bezel, strong water resistance, anti-magnetic protection, and a luminous, high-contrast dial built for underwater legibility.
While the collection has evolved by embracing different case materials, and exploring a variety of complications and features, its form has remained broadly consistent. Historically offered in 45mm or 42mm cases, the Fifty Fathoms has always worn large, reflecting its professional tool-watch origins. So when Blancpain released a pair of feminine 38 mm versions with mother-of-pearl dials just a few days ago, we wondered if it would be a one-off gesture.
It seems we didn’t have to wait long for the answer.
Blancpain has now introduced the Fifty Fathoms Automatique Ref. 5007, a 38.2 mm model that broadens the scope of the collection. Unlike the mother-of-pearl editions, which flaunt their feminine charm, the Ref. 5007 retains the original design’s restrained aesthetics—resulting in a watch with true unisex appeal.
Despite its traditionally larger size, the Fifty Fathoms—thanks to its sunburst dial and clean proportions—has never looked out of place when worn in more formal settings. But dressed in this sleek 38 mm silhouette, the watch gains added versatility, resulting in a piece that looks just as stylish when paired with a suit, worn daily on a casual strap, or displayed prominently over a wetsuit sleeve.
Beyond aesthetics, the shift to 38.2 mm also brings a tangible improvement in wearability. The case’s compact dimensions—combined with its rounded profile and balanced proportions—make it exceptionally comfortable on the wrist, particularly for those who may have found earlier Fifty Fathoms models overly assertive in size. It wears flatter, sits more snugly, and feels comfortable even when worn over extended periods.
Blancpain offers the Ref. 5007 in three case metals, each lending the watch a slightly different character. Brushed titanium brings a technical, utilitarian edge; polished stainless steel offers a more traditional sport-watch aesthetic; and 5N red gold delivers warmth and quiet refinement. The dial options are equally restrained: a deep black or navy blue, both finished with a sunburst effect and paired with oversized white gold hour markers filled with Super-LumiNova—for crisp legibility in any light.
Crucially, none of this comes at the expense of performance. The Ref. 5007 retains the Fifty Fathoms’ powerhouse specifications, boasting 300 metres of water resistance, a unidirectional bezel with domed sapphire insert, and the in-house calibre 1150 movement that offers a four-day power reserve.
The timepiece, in every meaningful sense, is still the Fifty Fathoms: purpose-built, technically accomplished, and now, more wearable than ever.
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