The world’s thinnest tourbillon watch is a triumph of mechanical engineering and audacity
Bvlgari risks normalising record-breaking feats in luxury watchmaking. The new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, which measures just 1.85mm thick—about the height of two stacked credit cards—is officially the world’s thinnest tourbillon wristwatch, and the Italian marque’s 10th record-breaking watch in the category of ultra-thin timepieces.
“Each record has been a stepping-stone. Setting a record isn’t just about crossing barriers – it’s about redefining what’s possible in mechanical watchmaking,” says Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO LVMH Watches and Bvlgari, in a press statement.
Indeed, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is all about redefining the status quo. Beyond technical finesse, its creation required a conceptual overhaul. Rather than layering components vertically in traditional fashion, Bvlgari’s engineers approached the watch as a two-dimensional object. This shift in thinking required teams across the Manufacture to chip in with ideas, re-examining long-held principles and embracing a level of cross-disciplinary invention.
To bring this vision to life, Bvlgari’s R&D division developed eight patented innovations. Among these are a unified case and movement structure, a bi-material caseback, an innovative crystal-mounting technique, and a reimagined barrel and oscillator. Even the titanium bracelet contributes to the architecture of the piece, its impossibly slim 1.5mm profile flowing seamlessly into the watch’s design.
The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is built with a sophisticated interplay of materials that not only looks good but ensures robustness. The bezel, case middle, and lugs are rendered in microbead-blasted titanium, offering a subtle matte sheen, while the mainplate is machined from ultra-dense tungsten carbide for maximum rigidity within minimal dimensions. Two discreet stainless steel crowns—one at 3 o’clock for time-setting and another at 8 o’clock for winding—complete the ultra-thin construction.
Appearance-wise, the watch draws cues from its sibling, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, but differentiates itself through a skeletonised tourbillon cage and a focused sub-dial for time display. On the wrist, the experience is disarming. Despite its architectural complexity, the watch is so light and supple it feels almost immaterial—more idea than object.
“The idea was to create a watch that encapsulates all our expertise. It’s not just about having the finest design but achieving a precise execution that tells the story of the Octo Finissimo series, while respecting the integrity of its distinctive aesthetic codes,” says Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari’s product creation executive director.
Bvlgari first entered the ultra-thin arena in 2014 with the Octo Tourbillon, then the thinnest tourbillon movement in the world. Since then, it has shattered records across categories—from the slimmest minute repeater in 2016 (3.12mm), to the Octo Finissimo Ultra in 2022, measuring just 1.8mm thick. Judging by the brand’s momentum, it has no intention of yielding its lead any time soon.
