The new Zeitwerk Date Pink Gold adds warmth and elegance to an iconic design
Ingenuity is a prized asset in watchmaking. Yet, there’s often an underlying risk, especially when exploring boundary-pushing designs in a field so rooted in tradition, that this pursuit of creativity will fail to resonate with collectors. When A. Lange & Söhne first unveiled its innovative Zeitwerk—with its highly complex digital display—in 2009, more than a few collectors raised their eyebrows, mystified by the risk that Lange had seemingly taken on.
Now 16 years after its debut, the Zeitwerk has carved itself into the canon of contemporary haute horlogerie, emerging as one of watchmaking’s most desired icons. Initially conceived as a reimagination of the five-minute clock inside the Dresden Semper Opera House, the Zeitwerk has since matured into a family of highly complicated watches that continues to redefine what mechanical ingenuity can look like on the wrist.
The newest addition to this lineage comes dressed in pink gold for the first time. Warm, rich, and exquisitely elegant, the Zeitwerk Date Pink Gold’s 44.2mm precious metal case is paired with a grey dial that tempers its exuberant palette. The grey dial offers a degree of mesure to the overall composition, offering a subdued backdrop that draws the eye naturally to the watch’s signature elements.
The time bridge, for example, rhodium-plated and crafted in untreated German silver, is immediately striking to the eye. Its brushed yet subtly lustrous finish adds a stately allure to the timepiece while perfectly framing the large numerals of the digital display. Elsewhere, a power reserve indicator—situated below the 12 o’clock—and a small seconds display at 6 o’clock provide symmetrical harmony to the watch’s visage.
Encircling the dial is the Zeitwerk Date’s most distinctive element: a glass date ring printed with numerals from 1 to 31. At midnight, a small red segment beneath the ring advances by one position, colouring the correct numerals on the glass date ring in red. This complication, first introduced in the Zeitwerk Date (ref. 148.038) from 2019, may appear to be a subtle feature. That said, the German watchmaker deserves plenty of praise for delivering a legible date function that doesn’t detract from the visual harmony of the dial.
Flanking the case are two pushers, integrated with characteristic discretion. The pusher at four o’clock allows the hour display to be advanced independently, with each press activating a finely tuned clutch system that temporarily decouples the hour ring from the movement, ensuring no energy is lost. At eight o’clock, a second pusher adjusts the date, advancing it with a similar release-triggered mechanism.
This intricacy is driven by the manually wound calibre L043.8 which includes a twin mainspring barrel and Lange’s patented constant-force escapement. Thanks to these features, the movement delivers an impressive 72-hour power reserve in spite of the high amount of energy needed to execute the jumping numerals of the digital display.
As expected from Lange, the movement is exquisitely finished, boasting meticulously hand-engraved bridges, solarised wheels, and the ever exquisite swan neck regulator. With its warm-hued pink gold case, iconic digital display, and symmetrical grey dial, the latest Zeitwerk Date Pink Gold continues to refine and deepen the design language of its predecessors.
