Small in scale, rich in imagination. These are some of the year’s finest examples of independent horology represented by luxury watch retailer SHH
Seasoned watch collectors with a taste for adventure know there is no better realm of high horology to explore than that of independent brands. Heralded for their small-batch production and unencumbered creativity while adhering to the time-honoured tenets of fine watchmaking, the best independent watch brands are known to roll out expressive, innovative, and exceptionally crafted timepieces that can rival the most excellent in the business. These are some of the notable independent releases of 2025, curated with the collector in mind.
Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon 11 Yellow Gold Edition
Limited to 11 pieces, this yellow gold edition of the Constant Force Tourbillon 11 honours the collaboration between John Arnold and Abraham-Louis Breguet, whose friendship helped define 18th-century chronometry. The architectural structure of the movement as well as its subtle yet refined finishing pay tribute to Breguet’s first tourbillon regulator that was based on a chronometer movement designed by Arnold.
Turn the watch over and you’ll find a lustrous white grand feu enamel dial that is interrupted only by a recessed white opal subdial and a carefully cut aperture that reveals the constant force mechanism beneath an 18k yellow gold bridge.
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 3SPC Platinum
With its new platinum-cased FB 3SPC, Ferdinand Berthoud brings additional weight—both literal and symbolic—to one of the most critically respected chronometers in independent watchmaking. The COSC-certified movement features a rare and difficult-to-regulate cylindrical balance spring, an architectural feature that recalls the first marine chronometers.
A side-mounted porthole at 9 o’clock offers a lateral view of this regulating organ, flaunting the movement’s spatial complexity. The off-centre dial is minimal and precise, sporting a subtle sandblasted finish and a salmon pink colourway that accentuates the richly detailed movement components.
Louis Moinet 1816 Chronograph
It’s rare for a watch to change horological canon. For two centuries, Nicolas Rieussec was credited with inventing the chronograph in 1821 until a Louis Moinet timepiece, dated 1816, surfaced at a Christie’s auction in 2012.
Louis Moinet’s new 1816 Chronograph draws a direct line to that rediscovered original: a purpose-built instrument reimagined for the wrist. Housed in a polished and satin-finished 40.6mm titanium case, the timepiece echoes the original’s layout, with two subdials positioned symmetrically at the top and a 12-hour counter below, maintaining balance and legibility.
The integrated titanium bracelet—Louis Moinet’s first—adds a contemporary note, its wide, sculptural links contrasting against the watch’s otherwise restrained, period-informed styling. Powered by the new manual-wind calibre LM1816, the watch features an instantaneous jumping minute counter and delivers a 48-hour power reserve.
Czapek & Cie Antarctique Tourbillon
Powered by the calibre 9, the brand’s latest in-house movement, Czapek & Cie’s beloved Antarctique now comes with a flying tourbillon. Sporting a vertically structured arrangement, with the barrel, gear train, and flying tourbillon aligned along a single central axis, the watch boasts a mesmerising guilloché dial. Crafted in collaboration with Metalem, the dial features a new pattern called Singularité—a vortex-like motif that plays with depth and light.
This effect is further accentuated by the slight convex structure of the dial that gives the impression of a timepiece that is literally and metaphorically pulling you in. Highly polished hour markers are set on the flange to keep the dial surface uninterrupted, allowing the curvature and architectural bridges to take centre stage. Coming with an ever-popular integrated bracelet system, the 40.5mm timepiece boasts a 72-hour power reserve.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Horizon
The Classic Auto Horizon marries Laurent Ferrier’s established design language—rounded forms, measured dials, and mechanical nuance—with everyday appeal. Its 40mm pebble-shaped stainless steel case is slim, ergonomically curved, and designed for daily wear.
The horizon blue dial, which uses a layered lacquer over a silver base, is immediately striking to the eye. Sporting a vertical brushed centre and a circular minute track, the dial gleams and shimmers when hit by light, offering subtle shades of purple at certain angles. White gold Assegai hands and indices complete the dial, while a framed date window at 3 o’clock is neatly integrated, maintaining the dial’s visual calm. Powering the timepiece is the LF270.01 micro-rotor calibre which has been adapted from Laurent Ferrier’s sport model and offers 72 hours of power reserve.
Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer
At just 39mm, the latest Central Impulse Chronometer distills one of the most complex independent escapements into a white or rose gold case that wears with rare restraint. Inside is Bernhard Lederer’s dual-impulse natural escapement—featuring two independent gear trains, twin barrels, and a pair of 10-second constant-force mechanisms that alternate energy delivery for greater stability and precision.
The result is a chronometer-grade timepiece that is rooted in the purity of accurate timekeeping. The dial comes in deep blue, grey, sleek black rhodium, or striking green. Each version features a refined finish with openworked sections and overlapping gear apertures. Twin seconds hands—each driven by its own train—rotate in opposite directions, giving a visual pulse to the architecture beneath. Limited to 25 pieces per version, the timepiece offers a 38-hour power reserve.
Jacob & Co Astronomia Revolution Four-axis Tourbillon
Jacob & Co. has never been shy about spectacle, but the latest Astronomia Revolution pushes its signature theatrics into unprecedented territory. At its centre is a world-first: a four-axis tourbillon mounted on a satellite carriage that completes a full rotation every 60 seconds—tripling the speed of the original 2015 Astronomia. Each axis spins at a different interval (60, 18, 15, and 60 seconds), powered by the hand-wound JCAM54 calibre and a one-sixth-of-a-second constant-force mechanism.
Housed in a massive 47mm rose gold case, the limited-to-18 timepiece is framed by sapphire crystal on all sides—including a dramatically domed top—that offer clear, uninterrupted views of the mechanics in motion. Underneath, a sculpted dial of 18 mirror-polished honeycomb panels reflects light from every angle, turning the display into a constantly shifting surface.
HYT T1 Titanium Guilloché
HYT’s T1 Titanium Guilloché brings traditional artisanal flair to its hyper-modern watchmaking approach. Limited to eight pieces, the timepiece features the brand’s signature fluidic hour display within a 45.3mm titanium case.
While the dimensions may sound large, short lugs and an ergonomic strap attachment make the watch sit lower and more balanced than expected. The dial is the focal point, sporting a structured mix of textures: radial guilloché at the centre, a linear ring framing the fluidic hours, and a sunburst finish around the power reserve.
The black fluid, which is contained in a capillary that circles the dial, advances retrogradely to mark the hours. The movement, Calibre 501-CM, uses mechanical energy to drive a fluidic system via twin bellows at 6 o’clock. As one bellow compresses, it pushes the coloured fluid forward; the other expands to draw back a transparent counterpart, ensuring a controlled advance.
Christiaan van der Klaauw Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite
If you’d ever want to wear the solar system on your wrist, this is how to do it. The Grand Planetarium Eccentric remains the only mechanical watch to show the real-time orbits of all eight planets.
This year’s edition is housed in a solid, 44mm meteorite case. Etched to reveal its crystalline grain, the surface has a visual shimmer and a tactile feel that gives the timepiece an unmistakable charm. Meant to evoke a celestial night sky, the dial is made of aventurine glass and features hand-painted spheres that represent the orbiting planets. In the centre of the dial is a meteorite ring representing the asteroid belt that holds fragments of Martian nakhlite, an ancient volcanic rock, within it. Powered by a manufacture automatic movement, the limited-to-three timepiece boasts a 60-hour power reserve.
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition
Armin Strom continues to build on its ingenious use of resonance with a new 50-piece release that showcases horological flair. Housed in a 39mm stainless steel case, the watch features the brand’s patented clutch spring, allowing two balance wheels to beat in resonance—improving chronometric stability while reducing the impact of external shocks.
The dual time zone display is thoughtfully executed, with independently adjustable hours and minutes for each zone and individual day/night indicators—catering to travellers who regularly navigate fractional GMT offsets. The dial is openworked, symmetrical, and rendered in a restrained monochrome palette, with twin subdials and exposed gearwork offering a visual clarity that balances precision with poise.
This story first appeared in the August 2025 issue. Purchase it as a print or digital copy, or consider subscribing to us here
