The Answers With… Sophie Labbé—nose behind iconic scents like Issey Miyake’s L’Eau d’Issey Eau de Parfum Intense and L’Eau d’Issey pour Homme Eau de Parfum—on the art of scent, creative expression, and finding balance between work and life
If you’ve ever had the pleasure of meeting perfumer Sophie Labbé, you’ll remember her smile before anything else. For Sophie, smiling is a state of mind, a symbol of the positivity that explains who she is and her way of looking at the world.
Warm, intuitive, and quietly disarming, it says as much about her as any fragrance ever could. That same spirit carries through her work: luminous, generous, and grounded in a deep sense of place. Raised between the vibrancy of Paris and the quiet vineyards of Charente-Maritime, Labbé composes perfumes the way others might tend a garden: with patience, precision, and an instinct for when something is ready to bloom.
Over the decades, Labbé—who graduated at the top of her class from ISIPCA in 1987—has shaped the olfactory signatures of some of the world’s most prestigious houses, but never lost the wonder that first drew her in. Whether she’s reimagining a neroli from Tunisia or getting lost in a novel by Aki Shimazaki, Labbé finds inspiration in the everyday, moments of contrast, memory, and unexpected harmony.
Is there a scent that immediately brings you comfort — like a secret refuge?
The scent of talcum powder, specifically Boro Talco–an Italian talcum powder with a slightly almond-like softness I’ve been using for years. Not wearing perfume myself, I’m drawn to scents like this. It is gentle, enveloping, and soothing in a way that never overwhelms.
Also, I really love seeing the pretty green bottle in my bathroom.
What’s a moment in your life you wish you could bottle forever — and what would that perfume smell like?
It would be the moment I first stepped into a perfumer’s lab as a student. The air was thick with possibilities—raw materials, blotters, glass bottles, and the quiet hum of concentration. If I could bottle that feeling, the scent would be a blend of sparkling aldehydes, creamy sandalwood, and a hint of labdanum—something luminous yet grounded, capturing the thrill of discovery and the promise of a lifelong journey.
Do you think scent can heal things that words can’t?
Yes. In my view, the role of perfume is, above all, to make the wearer feel good. It tells a story, offers comfort, and supports us emotionally in ways words often can’t. Scent has the power to uplift, to ground, and to project an aura that others can sense–without a single word being spoken.
If you had to leave behind one scent as your ‘message in a bottle’ for future generations, what would it capture?
It would capture the essence of nature and childhood—the salty breeze of the Atlantic, the sun’s warmth on skin, the earthy richness of harvest, and the intense, golden scent of immortelle. A fragrance like this would be my personal memory, bottled.
Is there a smell that feels like ‘home’ to you, even if you’re thousands of miles away?
Immortelle—the everlasting flower—instantly takes me back to the sand dunes of my childhood on France’s western coast: sun-kissed skin, salty ocean breezes, and the warmth of endless summers. It carries a slightly spicy, curry-like note with a hint of maple syrup—an addictive, unexpected duality that I find deeply nostalgic and incredibly comforting.
What’s the weirdest ingredient you’ve ever fallen in love with?
It’s a synthetic molecule called Corps Truffe, exclusive to DSM-Firmenich. While its top note is fleeting, I find it fascinating for how it intensifies underwood facets with a subtle chypre character. It adds remarkable depth and carries the rare, elusive essence of truffle.
How do you know when a fragrance is ‘finished’? Is it instinct, or more like a checklist?
That’s a tough question because you never really know for sure. Usually, it’s a collaborative process, with those working closely on the project helping to guide the decision. Together, we sense when the fragrance has found its perfect balance and truly tells the story we set out to create.
Outside of perfume, what’s something that sparks your creativity?
Gardening is a profound source of inspiration for me. It’s a meditative practice that teaches patience and attentiveness, much like perfumery. The scents of crushed leaves, damp soil, and blooming flowers often spark new olfactive ideas in this quiet, sensory space.
Travel and books also fuel my creativity, exposing me to new cultures, flavours, and stories. Both broaden my horizons and inspire fresh perspectives in my work.
If you had to describe your personality as a perfume, what would it smell like?
It would balance vitality and depth—like the fresh, uplifting quality of eaux fraîches and the mysterious, intense character of chypres.
When you’re not creating perfumes, what’s something simple that makes you happiest?
When I need to escape, I lose myself in the pages of a novel, especially those by Japanese author Aki Shimazaki, whose works I eagerly devour. Or sometimes, I simply close my eyes and picture myself back on France’s wild coastline. I also love spending my holidays on a catamaran, where the fresh air and open sea offer a refreshing sense of true freedom.
Is there a piece of advice you received early on that you still carry with you?
Believe in your dreams!
If you could invite three people (living or not) to a dinner party just to talk about beauty and creativity, who would you invite?
I’d choose Thierry Marx, a culinary philosopher whose inventive cuisine I deeply admire; Issey Miyake, whose blend of innovation, tradition, and poetry in fashion has long inspired me; and Elena Ferrante, the enigmatic Italian author whose true identity remains a mystery. Together, they would spark an extraordinary conversation about the essence of beauty and the limitless possibilities of creativity–while enjoying a meal thoughtfully crafted by Thierry Marx himself.
