The Swiss watchmaker didn’t hold back with the first Les Cabinotiers release since Watches and Wonders

Les Cabinotiers set the bar sky high this year with our Watch of the Year, the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Premiere. The new see-through marvels of the Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface add to Vacheron Constatin’s rich history of minute repeaters and complications, and like the Solaria, is a piece unique for one collector to savour.

The Vacheron Constantin “Les Cabinotiers” department represents the pinnacle of high horology, crafting exceptional, one-of-a-kind timepieces. Named after Geneva’s 18th-century artisan workshops (cabinotiers), this division blends traditional craftsmanship with innovative mechanical technology. Each creation is meticulously hand-finished, often featuring grand complications, artistic enamelling, or intricate engravings.

Showcasing Vacheron Constantin’s 270-plus years of expertise, the department embodies the brand’s motto, “Faire mieux si possible, ce qui est toujours possible” (“Do better if possible, which is always possible”).

The Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface features three main functions vying for your attention, in addition to the almost irrelevant showing of time itself. This is eminently legible on a subdial at 9 o’clock, where delicate set 18-karat rose gold hands are encircled by a frosted ring containing grey NAC-coated markers and four cardinal Arabic numerals. The main sapphire dial is a mere 0.5 mm thick, offering a clear view of the microcosm within, while the tourbillon, housed within its typical Maltese cross-shaped cage, acts as the seconds indicator at six o’clock.

While this latest Vacheron Constantin is far from being a sports watch, the delightfully green central chronograph seconds hand lends a modern vibe. A matching green pointer twirls within a 30-minute counter at 1:30 on the dial, pairing up with the central seconds and the equally crisp green markings of a matte outer seconds ring. The central seconds hand is, in fact, two layered hands, and using the Rattrapante function will momentarily stop the top hand for split-second timing, as the lower hand continues to count the seconds.

“The combination is very rare in wristwatches, essentially for reasons of volume and precision,” says Christian Selmoni, director of style and heritage at Vacheron Constantin, in a press statement. “More usually in grand complication wristwatches, we see minute repeaters associated with perpetual calendars. That configuration certainly requires a great deal of expertise. Still, the chronograph, with its clutch and column-wheel system—which on this piece is duplicated for the rattrapante—is an even bigger issue in terms of miniaturisation”. (With over 20 years at the brand, Selmoni had a deft hand in shaping and reviving iconic collections, such as the Overseas and Historiques.)

The fact that the Temporis Duo Grand Complication is rendered in 18-karat pink gold, in addition to its beautiful contrast with the green details and dark green alligator strap, is for functional reasons as much as aesthetic ones. This gold alloy is considered the ideal material for a chiming watch, offering a roundness and clarity of tone that is unmatched. And even if the age of small-sized watches is upon us, it is easy to understand why Selmoni and his team needed a full 45 mm case to encapsulate the complexities within. Without getting too deep into the micro-engineering visible through the sapphire dial, the manual Caliber 2757 S (for spherical) packs 696 components into a compact 10.4 mm by 33.3 mm diameter movement, with advanced materials like titanium and electro-formed nickel-phosphorus wheels playing a crucial role in keeping an impressive 50-hour power reserve with the chronograph running.

This new release from Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers cements the brand’s pivotal role in keeping traditional grand complications in the limelight. “The fact that Calibre 2757 comprises 696 parts explains not only the technical complexity of the complications but also the tremendous amount of work required for the decorative finishes,” says Selmoni. “This is an aspect of watchmaking in which Vacheron Constantin never compromises.”

This story was first published on Robb Report USA. Featured photo by Vacheron Constantin