the swiss luxury brand’s cult diving watch, the Memovox Polaris, is revived, resized and reinterpreted for the modern era
It’s funny when you think about it, but Jaeger-LeCoultre has never really had an entry-level sports watch in its lineup. True, the Reverso is linked to polo, but it isn’t exactly the first thing that springs to mind when someone mentions ‘sports watch’.
Enter the Polaris, a new pillar in the brand’s collection that made its debut at the SIHH. Jaeger-LeCoultre didn’t need to look far for inspiration. The Polaris is a direct descendant of the Memovox Polaris, a diving watch that launched in 1968 and gained a cult following.
Five models make up the current release: a three-hand automatic, a chronograph, a chronograph world time, and two vintage pieces that are direct tributes to the original. They are all fitted with automatic in-house movements, which are visible through the open case backs on three models.
The cases sport modern proportions, ranging in size from 41mm to 44mm. The two crowns – a distinguishing feature on the original, one for time setting and one for the inner rotating bezel – have been redesigned for better grip.
The dial design is subtle, with three types of finishing on three concentric circles. There’s an opaline finish on the rotating inner bezel, graining on the hours-and-minutes circle, and sunray finishing on the dial centre.
A newly designed three-link metal bracelet also comes with polished and brushed finished surfaces. You can swop it out for an alligator or calf leather strap, the latter available in light or dark brown tones with an aged patina.
We think the Polaris Automatic looks mighty fine with the dark brown option, as seen on the wrist of actor and Friend of the Brand Daniel Bruhl.
There’s something to be said about the pairing of an aged leather strap with a 50-year-old watch design. It speaks to the vintage enthusiast in us.
If you find that to be true of you as well, then the Polaris Date and the Polaris Memovox are right up your alley.
Both watches feature the same dial design codes as the 1968 original: vanilla SuperLumiNova; the triangle at 12 o’clock; trapezoidal indices; and the railway minute track. They also come with a date window at 3 o’clock.
In addition, the Polaris Date sports a glass box design, with the crystal raised from the case to emphasise the vintage vibe.
Meanwhile, the Polaris Memovox bears an additional crown (at 2 o’clock) to set an alarm, a feature that first appeared on the original watch. The crown at 3 o’clock adjusts the inner rotating bezel, while the one at 4 o’clock sets the time. The watch is limited to 1,000 pieces.
The Polaris collection will be showcased in a special exhibition at Level 1 Atrium, Ion Orchard from 19 to 29 July 2018.
