Zenith marks its 160th anniversary with another standout release: the Chronomaster Original in blue, a contemporary expression of one of its most iconic watches
By any measure, 160 years is a milestone worth honouring. Yet for Zenith, whose very name evokes a pursuit of peak performance, such celebrations come not just with fanfare, but with an affirmation of what came before and what lies ahead.
The storied manufacture has marked its anniversary with a series of commemorative timepieces that weaves tradition and innovation into a seamless expression of horological intent. For instance, the highly coveted G.F.J—named after its founder Georges Favre-Jacot—is a subtly ornamental platinum dress watch that is powered by a reworked version of its award-winning Calibre 135 movement. Meanwhile, the Blue Ceramic Chronograph Trilogy 160th Anniversary limited edition comprises three of Zenith’s most iconic chronographs, housed in striking blue ceramic that the brand developed for the occasion.
Adding to this celebratory narrative is the quietly formidable Chronomaster Original. The latest iteration bears all the familiar characteristics of the collection and then some. For one, it ranks as quite possibly the most well- considered tribute creation in Zenith’s repertoire, paying homage to the A386, one of the brand’s most influential references.
Launched in 1969, the A386 was among the earliest vessels for the revolutionary El Primero calibre, the world’s first automatic high-frequency chronograph movement. More than half a century later, its silhouette remains unchanged: a compact 38mm stainless steel case, round and without a bezel, featuring sharp, faceted lugs and classic pump-style pushers.
Though its profile is familiar, the watch is invigorated with a new dial treatment that reimagines the past through a contemporary lens. This time, Zenith has sheathed the dial in midnight blue, a shade that dominates the brand’s 160th anniversary as it evokes the night sky that inspired Favre-Jacot to create the world’s best timepieces. The sunray blue dial provides the backdrop to the tri-coloured counters in grey, dark grey, and blue—the same colours that appeared on the original A386.
At the heart of the watch is El Primero 3600, a modern evolution of the calibre that secured Zenith’s place in horological history. Beating at a brisk 5Hz, or 36,000 vibrations per hour, the movement enables 1/10th of a second precision, with a chronograph seconds hand that completes one full revolution every 10 seconds. The mechanism also incorporates a stop- seconds function and boasts an enhanced power reserve of 60 hours—more than enough for a long weekend away.
The watch’s technical finesse can be admired via a sapphire crystal caseback, which showcases the calibre in full view. The movement’s stunning architecture, the column wheel and star-shaped open rotor that enhances smooth activation of the chronograph mechanism, and the meticulous finishing on every component demonstrate an interplay of form and function.
In a landscape crowded with reinvention and revivals, the Chronomaster Original stands out by staying true to its roots. For those who appreciate mechanical substance and considered design, it offers quiet satisfaction. Wearing it is not about making a statement. Rather, it is to embrace a legacy that has been shaped by over a century and a half of watchmaking expertise.
This story first appeared in the August 2025 issue. Purchase it as a print or digital copy, or consider subscribing to us here
