Watches and Wonders 2024: Top trends for collectors of all stripes

It doesn’t matter where you are on your horological appreciation journey. There is a watch made just for you at Watches and Wonders 2024

By now, you’re likely to have waded through the social media posts and online hot takes. Seeing everything all at once is one thing. Sifting through the noise to find the deluge of new timepieces from Watches and Wonders 2024 is another.

The trumpeting and unencumbered touting by watch companies are fun to see. But lest you get distracted, remember to ask yourself one important question before deciding on which shiny new watch you want: What sort of collector are you?

Get Some Sun

Fans of high-octane sports watches have plenty to think about. This year’s plethora of outdoor-ready timepieces runs the gamut from stylish chronographs for the boardroom to hardcore tool watches for professional use.

While most creations eschew the gargantuan dimensions that dominated releases in the past two decades, opting for friendlier and more versatile case sizes that peak at around 42mm to 45mm, the watches will still make their presence felt. Fine examples include Chopard’s dressy Alpine Eagle XL Chrono in 44mm titanium, and Montblanc’s hugely successful Iced Sea collection of dive watches with dials bearing glacier-like decorations, which return this year in a 41mm bronze case.

Complicating Matters

Heavyweight watch marques love to brandish their horological might with highly technical creations and it is no different at this year’s Watches and Wonders. Where before, a veil of aesthetic subtlety cloaked these wildly complicated offerings, brands are less coy this year.

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honey gold ‘Lumen’. Photo by A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne’s Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honey gold ‘Lumen’ is among the more brazenly expressive complication highlights. Encased in the brand’s proprietary honey gold alloy, the triple complication (flyback chronograph, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon)–rolled out to commemorate the Datograph’s 25th anniversary–is exposed on a mesmerising semi-transparent dial with a luminous coating on the displays and functions that emanate an ethereal green glow in the dark.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual. Photo by Jaeger-LeCoultre

Another contender for the most eye-catching complication of the fair is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual. Sculptural, ornamental, and exceedingly technical in equal measure, it features a globular tourbillon cage that rotates on three axes—a first for the brand—accompanied by a perpetual calendar with a grande date.

Be Dazzled

Likewise, ladies looking to make a statement with a new bejewelled acquisition will not be disappointed. Electrifying glitter with top-quality stones and an insane carat count are rudimentary for high jewellery watches. The ones that really stand out, though, lavish their sparkle with creativity.

Vacheron Constantin Grand Lady Kalla. Photo by Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin’s Grand Lady Kalla, for instance, reimagines an archived model from the 1980s into a modern timepiece with a tassel sautoir that can be worn four ways, set with over 45 carats of emerald-cut diamonds. Over at Chopard, numerous artisans craft the stunning new Imperiale watch in white gold, featuring a dial inspired by Venetian mosaic art with diamonds nestled alongside enamel and mother-of-pearl marquetry.

Chopard Imperiale. Photo by Chopard

While the watches are spectacular and enough for you to activate the speed dial for your dealer, the list is by no means exhaustive. Watch this space for more hot takes on our favourite novelties from the fair.