Introducing three groundbreaking in-house movements at Watches & Wonders 2025, Patek Philippe demonstrates why it remains a flag bearer of mechanical ingenuity
Patek Philippe does not do horological trends. Rather, the Geneva watchmaking house has consistently defined epochs by upholding the time-honoured watchmaking tenets of creativity, artistry, and innovation. After all, this is the brand that shaped the course of watchmaking history with innovations such as the world’s first wristwatch made in 1868 for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary; the Calibre 89 from 1989, still one of the most complicated mechanical timepieces ever made with 33 complications; and its Advanced Research timepieces that pioneered the use of silicon and other state-of-the-art materials in modern watchmaking. At Watches & Wonders 2025, Patek Philippe once again reaffirmed its horological hegemony with three new in-house movements, each a demonstration of its enduring horological prowess.
From a wristwatch melding a quartet of complications to a Calatrava with eight days of power that belies its refined exterior, and to a table clock that is as practical as it is ornate, these new creations demonstrate why Patek Philippe remains an undisputed heavyweight of fine watchmaking.
Ref. 5308G-001
Building on the legacy of the Ref. 5208, the new Ref. 5308G-001 raises the bar with the addition of a split-seconds chronograph to an already formidable combination of complications: a minute repeater, chronograph, and instantaneous perpetual calendar. The result is a refined display of Patek Philippe’s horological expertise, contained within a wristwatch that is both technically complex and elegantly proportioned.
The minute repeater sounds the hours, quarters, and minutes on two traditional gongs, which are activated by a slide on the case. This mechanism reflects the brand’s long-standing mastery of acoustic watchmaking. The split-seconds chronograph enables the timing of two concurrent events and is enhanced by two patent-pending innovations. The first is a flexible-tooth wheel that suppresses hand vibration without requiring additional energy. The second is a friction- reducing mechanism that lifts a component during split timing, improving precision and reliability.
The patented instantaneous perpetual calendar ensures that the day, date, and month change simultaneously, irrespective of the number of days in the month. These indications appear in apertures that are arranged in an arc and complete their changeover in just 30 milliseconds at midnight. Additional apertures display the day/ night cycle and leap-year indication, while the moonphase display is integrated within the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock.
Ref. 5328G-001
The Calatrava’s enduring appeal lies in its pared- down elegance and thoughtful engineering, making it one of Patek Philippe’s most iconic collections. The latest addition, the Ref. 5328G- 001, introduces an instantaneously jumping day- date display for improved legibility, along with an impressive eight-day power reserve.
At its heart is the new manually wound calibre 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J, which delivers a 192-hour power reserve via a dual-barrel system. A ninth ‘reserve’ day, shown in red on the power reserve scale, acts as a visual cue to wind the watch before it stops.
The movement blends classical construction with technical ingenuity, featuring a Pulsomax escapement made from Silinvar that ensures precision and long-term reliability. The twin series- coupled barrels support accurate performance throughout the eight-day cycle, while the reserve indicator enhances practicality. At midnight, the day and date jump instantaneously thanks to a refined cam and dual-function spring mechanism, ensuring clear and coordinated transitions.
Ref. 27000M-001
Combining a nostalgic aesthetic with practical mechanical complications, the Ref. 27000M- 001 desk clock features perpetual and weekly calendars in an artful and ornate package.
A commanding conversation piece in any study, the clock’s exterior is crafted from sterling silver and finished with a green grand feu flinque enamel dial over swirling guilloche panels, combining time-honoured techniques with modern artistry. Beneath the hinged bonnet, a panel of American walnut veneer recalls the dashboards of vintage motorcars.
More than a decorative artefact, though, the desk clock is a practical, robust, and reliable timekeeper. At its core is the manually wound calibre 86-135 PEND S IRM Q SE, which stores up to 31 days of power reserve. Comprising 912 components, the movement is the result of seven years of development and has led to nine patent applications. It features a perpetual calendar with displays for the day, date (indicated by a hand), month, leap year, and day/night cycle. Encircling the dial, a mobile red frame indicates the current week number, while the moonphase appears at 6 o’clock.
This story first appeared in the August 2025 issue. Purchase it as a print or digital copy, or consider subscribing to us here
