A comprehensive list of the best bespoke and made-to-measure menswear shops in New York City

From Leonard Logsdail to Thom Sweeney, here are 19 Big Apple tailors who can customise everything, whether it’s a tuxedo or pyjamas

A global pandemic came and receded, and once the dust settled it was clear that we didn’t wish to live in sweatpants for the rest of our lives. As a matter of fact, it’s an exciting time to take an interest in the rarefied world of bespoke, custom and made-to-measure clothing in New York, as the city is awash with local and international artisans, heritage makers working at the top of their craft and young designers putting their own stamp on a centuries-old art.

But first, a note on terminology, as not all personalised tailoring is made at the same level. At the entry point is made-to-measure, which is often made with the same quality and at the same facilities as ready-made clothing but differs in that its pre-set “block” or pattern has been altered to account for a client’s measurements and certain styling preferences, including their choice of fabric. Made-to-measure clothing arrives in near-final form save for the placement of the sleeve buttons but can be additionally altered to better fit the client.

Bespoke, also called “bench made,” represents the other side of the spectrum. Rather than adjusting a factory’s pre-existing templates, a tailor will create an entirely new pattern for the client. This allows for a much fuller range of customisations and fit adjustments over a greater number of fittings, which typically begins with a temporary “basted” fitting held together by string.

That, however, is only the most broadly accepted definition—other considerations, such as whether the pattern is drawn on paper or the garment features additional levels of handmaking will vary by maker. As this suggests, many firms fall somewhere between these two poles and define themselves under the big-tent classification of “custom,” which can be understood as a blend of the two.

Now, whether your next custom commission will be a three-piece suit or a polo shirt, consult the list of makers below.

Alexander Black

Alexander Black

Operating outside of a space in Crown Heights, Alexander Black offers potential clients with three levels of make. Its custom suits are made overseas utilising a digital customer pattern based on 25 individual measurements. The semi-bespoke offering, meanwhile, relies on a hand-struck paper pattern and includes more handwork at vital points including the shoulder and sleeves. Finally, its full bespoke make is produced start-to-finish by a single tailor in New York City and requires more than 70 hours of labour.

Alexander Black
865 Eastern Parkway
Brooklyn, NY 11213
Tel: +1 347-600-8217

Angel Ramos New York

Angel Ramos New York

The Angel Ramos house style is infused with the sartorial signifiers of the Jazz Age and the gregarious personal style of its titular founder and creative director. Rather than fitting clients through a set block pattern, the made-to-measure program splits the difference with bespoke by creating a custom pattern for each client based on 30 body measurements. Once the fabric is cut, the garment is then made according to one of the 1930s-inspired house styles. The company also offers its soft-shouldered jackets, high-waisted trousers, knit polos and four-pocket “cigar shirts” made-to-order.

Angel Ramos New York
13 Christopher Street
New York, NY 10014

J.Mueser
19 Christopher Street
Store B
New York, NY 10014
Tel: +1 347-982-4382

Leonard Logsdail

Leonard Logsdail

London-born, Savile Row-trained Leonard Logsdail brings over 50 years of tailoring experience to his midtown atelier, which he opened in 1991. While the business has earned attention for outfitting films like The Wolf of Wall Street and American Gangster, Logsdail practices bespoke at a remarkably intimate and traditional level. He personally takes each client’s measurements, drafts their paper pattern and cuts their fabric himself. Afterward, the garments are made locally by a single jacket maker, trouser maker and buttonhole-finisher—each is touched by just four individuals. In addition to bespoke, Logsdail also maintains a made-to-measure offering that is produced in Canada.

Leonard Logsdail
9 East 53rd Street,
Floor 4
New York, NY 10022
Tel: +1 212-752-5030

Manolo Costa

Manolo Costa

Before going solo, Manolo Costa helped launch Paul Stuart’s Phineas Cole line and managed the Purple Label department at the Polo mansion. That inclination for old-world glamour is still expressed at his Upper East Side atelier, which is decorated with art and antiques collected by Costa on his travels—and are available for clients to purchase. His bespoke garments take after American tailoring from the ’20s and ‘30s, with soft, natural shoulders and structured bodies. The clothing is made domestically, and typically completed after eight to 10 weeks with three to four fittings.

Manolo Costa
130 ¼ East 65th Street
New York, NY 10065
Tel: +1 212-889-2625

Martin Greenfield Clothiers

Martin Greenfield Clothiers

Brooklyn’s Martin Greenfield Clothiers carries a unique heritage. Its titular founder was orphaned in the Holocaust before emigrating to the United States and finding work as a floor boy at the factory he came to purchase. As a master tailor, Greenfield went on to make suits for US presidents and productions including Boardwalk Empire and The Great Gatsby, and today the factory bearing his name is the last union shop remaining in the New York area. Clients who wish to engage its custom services can visit the factory’s third floor, where they’ll be fitted for a personal pattern that will be cut on the floor directly above them before being used to make their garments on-site.

Martin Greenfield Clothiers
239 Varet Street
Brooklyn, NY 11206
Phone: +1 718-497-5480

New & Lingwood

New & Lingwood

New & Lingwood is headquartered on Jermyn street in London but maintains an Upper East Side store with made-to-measure offered on the second floor. In addition to suits and shirting, New & Lingwood also allows clients to order custom-made dressing gowns in fine fabrics including silk and cashmere that will be made directly under its Jermyn street shop.

New & Lingwood
970 Lexington Avenue
New York, NY 10021
Tel: +1 212-585-1865
Weston Wells, founder of Paolo Martorano Bespoke

Paolo Martorano Bespoke

Paolo Martorano Bespoke was established in 2017 when its founder was just 25 years old, but its quality has attracted some of menswear’s most discerning vets. Martorano practices the bespoke art at its most traditional with custom paper patterns and basted fittings for each garment. Jackets are hand-sewn with hand-padded collars, chests and lapels, and trousers are hand-basted and finished by six hours of manual pressing. The house silhouette embraces classic proportions and can be identified by a natural, lightly padded shoulder with gentle roping at the sleevehead. In addition to traditional tailoring and eveningwear, Martorano also offers bespoke pyjamas, gilets, safari jackets and other less formal fare.

Paolo Martorano Bespoke
130 West 57th Street, 2A,
New York, NY 10019
Tel: +1 212 363 0135

P.Johnson

P. Johnson

Aussie import P. Johnson hosts an airy, third-floor showroom in SoHo where clients are measured to create an individual series of patterns. Afterward, these may be used to make a wide array of formal or casual made-to-measure garments, ranging from suits to shirt jackets to polos. The highest level offerings are produced by P. Johnson’s Tuscan factory Sartoria Carrara and made predominantly by hand. The brand also partners with a Shanghai factory that produces its Pronto line made at a lower price point and with a shorter turnaround time, as well as its P. Johnson Femme line of made-to-measure garments for women.

P.Johnson
400 Broadway, 3rd Floor
New York, NY 10012
Tel: +1 917-533-5879

Sartoria Gallo

Sartoria Gallo

After studying under the Roman tailor Luigi Gallo, San Francisco native Eric Jensen established a New York outpost of the Gallo family business in March 2021. The result is cross-continental bespoke: paper patterns are made by Jensen in his Carnegie Hill showroom while the first fittings are produced in either New York or Rome. All garments are completed in Rome and bear the hallmarks of the Gallo style: an unpadded shoulder, light horsehair canvas and neat finishing that’s more boardroom-friendly than the comparable Neapolitan make.

Sartoria Gallo
1298 Madison Ave
New York,NY 10128
Tel: +1 619-988-6242

Thom Sweeney

Thom Sweeney

Thom Sweeney’s contemporary approach to British tailoring is represented in Manhattan by a SoHo store that stocks its ready-to-wear line, offers made-to-measure and hosts bespoke trunk shows with its London cutters four times a year. The brand’s made-to-measure offering is available in three models: a modern British construction with a lightweight chest canvas, lightly padded shoulders and a gently roped sleevehead; a softly structured jacket with an Italian-style shoulder construction; and a completely unstructured and unlined make—all of which are made in Italy. Its bespoke is tailored in London following a client’s individual paper pattern and cut with an updated English silhouette that leans trimmer with lightweight chest canvassing and subtler shoulder pads.

Thom Sweeney
362 W Broadway
New York, NY 10013
Tel: +1 646-851-0586

Tiefenbrun

Tiefenbrun

Just as his nom de Instagram would suggest, Yosel Tiefenbrun—aka @rabbitailor—is an ordained rabbi. But he’s also a classically trained bespoke tailor, having studied at the Savile Row Academy before apprenticing for Maurice Sedwell. His East Williamsburg showroom may be a long way from the Row, but the English influence can be felt in a house style marked by roped shoulders, high armholes and a suppressed waist.

Tiefenbrun
188 Scott Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11237
Tel: +1 718-650-6120

Turnbull & Asser

Turnbull & Asser

Those wishing to engage the Royal Warrant-holding shirtmaker’s custom services in Manhattan will find the bespoke department on the third floor of its Midtown flagship. Within, clients will have the opportunity to select from over 1,000 fabrics, 25 options for collars and cuffs and 20 varieties of monogram, and will have 18 body measurements taken to develop their custom paper pattern.

Turnbull & Asser
50 East 57th Street
New York, NY 10022
Phone: +1 212-752-5700

This article was first published on Robb Report USA