Kim Jones recreates the Dior Men Tailleur Oblique suit from the 1950s collection

Dior’s formal menswear collection gets a sartorial upgrade

Most men would vouch for the sartorial artistry of Dior’s artistic director Kim Jones. The designer has expanded the brand’s formal tailoring collection, offering new styles and rejuvenated classics. 

Jones has a knack for using the past to fuel the future. While the classic single-breasted notch-lapel suit remains unchanged with its signature structured shoulder and hand-stitched detailing, it features a host of novel design features. Drawing design cues from the brand’s menswear archives, the suit’s lining now bears the ‘CD’ monogram in jacquard and a soutache braid loop that sits at the nape of the neck. A range of new silhouettes is also available in single-breasted, double-breasted and tuxedo variants.

Simultaneously trendy and timeless at the same time is Tailleur Oblique, which made its debut in the men’s summer 2019 collection. Here, trousers are streamlined, with a slightly higher waist sans waistband, secured with side adjusters. A casual and lighter version of the Tailleur Oblique jacket takes the form of a half-lined version, which is introduced for the first time in Dior’s menswear. It’s available in a single-breasted style, skewed slightly to the diagonal. 

But in pursuit of progression, details have not been tossed to the back seat. The brand’s label has been given an update, now in an emblematic shade of Dior grey, and each of the new suit styles is finished with a hand-sewn buttonhole on the lapel. Dior’s tailoring history is reflected in a new satin-striped cupro sleeve lining and interior waistband. 

New fabric options include houndstooth and Prince of Wales and chine check, with stripes in pale and navy blue. The collection will carry five to 10 permanent styles and exclusive weaves will be added seasonally.