Patek Philippe debuts three new complicated chronographs, including one in stainless steel

Patek Philippe complicated chronographs

A perpetual calendar, an annual calendar, and a world timer walk into a bar. Except the bar is actually a chronograph.

When it comes to the wide world of chronographs, Patek Philippe has practically done them all. Manual winding or self-winding, simple or complicated, vertical clutch or horizontally coupled… Indeed, chronographs have always played a leading role in the vast repertoire of Patek Philippe high complications. With no fewer than 12 chronograph based calibres to date, the manufacture offers over 20 different references for men and women. This month, it adds three new models to the mix, one of which is a sporty stainless steel piece with an olive green dial.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5204R-011
Ref. 5204R creates a modern aesthetic with a slate grey dial and alligator strap on rose gold

Split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar Ref. 5204R-011

A modern rendition of one of Patek Philippe’s most sought after grand complications, Ref. 5204R-011 brings a refreshing new aesthetic to the series. Even though it’s the third such model cased in rose gold, the slate grey sunburst dial and strap infuses the 40mm watch with a contemporary spirit.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5204R-011 dial
The indications on the sunburst dial stand out for their perfect legibility

Taken together with the concave bezel and two-tiered lugs, Ref. 5204R-011 updated the classic codes it inherited from the 2005 Perpetual Calendar Split-Second Chronograph Ref. 5004J with tasteful discretion. Hour markers in place of numerals, little round windows for day/night and leap year, and luminescent coating on the Dauphine-type hands and hour markers offer a refreshing aesthetic. Meanwhile the reversed moon phase display gives it a perfectly balanced vertical symmetry.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5204R-011 back
Calibre CHR 29-535 PS Q combines seven patented innovations

Its transparent sapphire case back offers a magnificent view of the manufacture Calibre CHR 29-535 PS Q, admired for its traditional architecture which combines manual-winding with two column wheels and a horizontal clutch.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5930P-001
The brilliance of platinum meets vibrant green details in the Ref. 5930P-001

World time flyback chronograph Ref. 5930P-001

Combining the world time function with a self-winding flyback chronograph, this verdant model pays tribute to a one-of-a-kind timepiece from the 1940s, Ref. 862 442. But if it triggers an urge to ask “Have we met?” even if you weren’t even born in the 40s, you’re absolutely right. Because Patek Philippe’s world time chronograph made big news as one of six Southeast Asian limited editions launched in Singapore in 2018 during its Watch Art Grand Exhibition.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5930P-001 dial
The dial centre illustrates mastery of fine craftsmanship with the hand-guillochéd circular pattern

Now it returns to the spotlight once again, but this time dressed in a vibrant almost glowing bottle green dial with matching alligator strap. Even the city names have been printed in green to stay perfectly colour-coordinated. At the heart of its dial is a stunning hand-guillochéd circular pattern with a snailed 30-minute counter. The entire case was polished by hand and crafted in platinum, as confirmed by the single round diamond sitting at six o’clock.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5930P-001 back
Calibre CH 28-520 HU is equipped with a column wheel and modern disk-type vertical clutch

Unlike Ref. 5204R-011, this model comes with rectangle rather than pump pushers and the movement within, Calibre CH 28-520 HU operates on the disk-type vertical clutch. The latter allows the central chronograph hand to be used also as a running seconds hand with no impact on movement accuracy or power reserve. Wing-type lugs typical of watches from the 40s and 50s complete the 39.5mm case.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5905/1A-001
Ref. 5905/1A-001 is styled as an everyday watch, crafted in steel with an olive green dial

Flyback chronograph with annual calendar Ref. 5905/1A-001

The introduction of new models in stainless steel is always a major event for Patek Philippe enthusiasts. You can always distinguish these watches from their white gold or platinum counterparts by the A in their reference numbers, where A stands for acier, meaning steel in French.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5905/1A-001 bracelet
The three-link integrated bracelet is inspired by the Aquanaut Ref. 5167/1A

As it combines the flyback chronograph with one of Patek Philippe’s proudest inventions of the 21st century, the annual calendar, Ref. 5905/1A-001 offers a bold and casual aesthetic immediately stands out from its rose gold and platinum counterparts. Its polished steel case features the familiar concave bezel with recessed sides that’s fast becoming a Patek Philippe signature, particularly for the complicated models.

Apart from its stainless steel construct, this timepiece is also the only one in the series to be paired with a bracelet – a three-link integrated design inspired by the Aquanaut Ref. 5167/1A – and a trendy olive green sunburst dial last seen in the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-014. Powering it steadily and visible through the case back is Calibre 28-520 QA 24H.