Quenino by Victor Liong is a reflection of third culture and a play on the traditions of Chinese, Malay and Indian cuisine
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While standing out in fine dining is a competitive sport these days, there is pleasure to be found getting comfortable at Quenino by Victor Liong, the chef behind Lee Ho Fook, Melbourne’s go-to for creative, new-age Chinese cuisine. At Quenino, his culinary horizons expand to Singapore and Malaysia’s waters, where flavours prepare you for a night of sensory overload, but only in the best ways possible.
What’s it like at Quenino by Victor Liong?
Found on level four of Artyzen Singapore in a tranquil space of its own, Quenino by Victor Liong has to be one of the hotel’s biggest draws. Its name, which points to the crossroads of flavours around Asia, is derived from ‘little one’ in Kristang, a creole language spoken by a community of mixed Portuguese and Malay ancestry. It’s also a reflection of Liong’s journey as a third culture chef. Born in Brunei to Chinese-Malaysian parents but raised in Sydney since the age of six, Melbourne has been his home since 2013, the year he opened Lee Ho Fook.
The space is a reflection of Artyzen Singapore’s design-led ethos. A collaboration between the award-winning architecture firm, Ong & Ong, and Australian design studio, Nic Graham & Associates, it aims to evoke tropical Singapore with views of pocket gardens. Guests may also head up to the rooftop, where the herbs and vegetables grown can be seen in its food and drinks.
What should we order?
At Quenino, Liong expands his culinary repertoire into Singapore’s rich tapestry of flavours, paying homage to the heritage and traditions of Chinese, Malay and Indian cuisine, but with a playful, contemporary twist. The food here is degustation-only, focused and thoughtful, clean but big on flavour. There are three kinds of menus available—the seven-course Focus (S$180) that’s available vegetarian, and nine-course Discovery (S$240)—shaped by a third culture lens of adaptability, curiosity and rediscovery, and techniques and ingredients sourced from the local markets, farms and traditional eateries of Singapore and Australia. It’s a ‘local first’ philosophy, but ultimately, whatever’s the best and freshest is still key.
The kitchen is left in the hands of Sujatha Asokan, the chef de cuisine who was Rising Chef of the Year at the 2020 World Gourmet Summit. Born to Malaysian Chinese and Singaporean Indian parents, to have her carry out Liong’s vision of Quenino only makes sense. Highlights include the Handpicked Mud Crab with taro cream and caviar; Raw Spencer Gulf Kingfish served with creamy white soy, white fungi and burnt garlic white oil; and Lacquered Duck, a roasted dry-aged bird served with sambal hijau and paper-thin thosai and eaten like Peking duck.
What else is there to know?
Café Quenino, also at Artyzen Singapore, is Liong’s casual diner that offers breakfast, innovative all-day dining and cocktails. Guests can look forward to dishes like Assam Ang Kar Prawn, Beef Short Ribs with Rendang Sauce, and Oscietra Caviar, served with potato rice crackers and sour cream. There will also be pastries on the menu, supplied by the good people of Le Matin.
Quenino by Victor Liong
9 Cuscaden Road,
Tel: +65 6371 6030