Robb Reports: Loewe Fall/Winter 2024 Men’s Collection

The Loewe Fall/Winter 2024 collection is a collage of masculinity and art, inspired by the works of American artist Richard Hawkins

In the hallowed halls of Paris Fashion Week, Loewe unveiled its Fall/Winter 2024 collection, a blend of artistry and apparel that boldly redefines modern masculinity. At the helm of this electrifying display was none other than creative director Jonathan Anderson, known for his visionary approach to fashion. The daring decision to amalgamate the provocative art of Richard Hawkins with Loewe’s innovative designs set a new precedent, showing that fashion is not just about clothes but the evolving human narrative behind them.

Richard Hawkins, an American artist and professor of painting and drawing at the University of California, left his indelible mark on the collection with his unique take on the male form. His work, influenced by art history, paparazzi shots, and social media content, infused Loewe’s creations with pop-culture and arcane references spanning Greek and Roman statuary to contemporary sex tourism. These influences are manifested in Loewe’s offerings as both eclectic prints and as a philosophical underpinning to the garments’ bold silhouettes.

“His [Hawkin’s] practice is rooted in collage and the provocation of juxtaposition, forming a personal narrative of desire,” Loewe highlights. “Hawkins’s collision of disparate imagery long foreshadowed the constant online stream of disparate images we are now seduced by daily.”

Mike Faist, Andrew Garfield, Wu Lei. Photo by Getty Image

The runway spectacle unfolded as a vibrant explosion of colour and texture, a direct evolution from the rich palettes of previous seasons. A-list attendees navigated a space adorned with digital windows showcasing brand ambassadors and internet personalities, mirroring Hawkins’ promiscuous vision. Meanwhile, models paraded in scaled leather coats, beaded trousers, and multidimensional polo shirts—a deconstruction of traditional menswear.

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Loewe’s Fall/Winter 24 collection, aptly termed “Collage in Motion,” echoed the themes of Hawkins’ artworks, embracing a collage of styles that fit the restless nature of today’s fashion landscape. At the forefront were pieces that stitched together a narrative of crystallised American iconography—coats, suits, and skater sneakers—integral parts of a look that’s both cohesive and commentary. The integration of clothing with accessories—socks to trousers, belts to waists—ushered in a perspective where fashion pieces weren’t just worn but were a reflexive part of an individual’s collage of identity.

Within the show, the venue itself became an art piece, designed to resemble a white cube. It also features large screens harking back to iconic Loewe window displays from the ’60s by José Pérez de Rozas, fusing the past with present digital innovation. This synthesis of art, fashion, and social commentary positions the Loewe Fall/Winter 24 collection not merely as a sartorial choice but as a reflection of the dynamically collaged world we inhabit.