From Buenos Aires to Milan: Adrian Appiolaza revives Moschino’s theatrical spirit
Adrian Appiolaza, a visionary from Buenos Aires, has rejuvenated the iconic fashion house of Moschino after the sudden passing of Italian creative director Davide Renne. At the helm as the new creative director, Appiolaza is celebrated for his profound rebirth of the brand, infusing it with an energy reflective of his diverse career and his love for Moschino’s historical semblance.
At the heart of Milan’s fashion royalty, Appiolaza’s first collection is anxiously anticipated to grace the venue of Museo della Permanente during Milan Fashion Week on 22 February. The venue, revered by the brand for hosting a Moschino retrospective in 1993, stands as an emblem of legacy, now reinspired by Appiolaza’s touch.
Massimo Ferretti, the driving force behind Aeffe Group, praised Appiolaza, saying, “Adrian brings with him a unique wealth of experience, creativity, and knowledge of the history of fashion that will be instrumental to write a wonderful new chapter in the adventure of the brand founded by Franco Moschino.”
Embracing Moschino’s vibrant past, Appiolaza conveys a deep respect for its roots, underscoring a journey through its extensive archive to spark future creations. His dedication to the ethos of Franco Moschino transforms his designs, which are not merely garments but narratives woven from the fabric of context and history. Appiolaza, who himself is a passionate collector of Moschino pieces, stated, “I have always admired Franco Moschino’s sharp wit and irony: his creations were not just clothes, but a commentary on the status quo of his times, crafted from fabric.”
The Argentine’s path to Moschino is paved with illustrious repertoire amongst fashion’s nobility. From the tailor shop of his grandmother in Buenos Aires to the revolutionary scenes of music in Manchester, Appiolaza has cultivated a unique blend of culture and couture. His experiences at Chloé under Phoebe Philo, Miuccia Prada’s Miu Miu, Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, and a decade at Loewe illustrated his range and depth in the fashion landscape.
“She saw the collection with which I graduated and invited me to join her at Chloé in 2002,” Appiolaza shared of the pivotal moment when Phoebe Philo sculpted the trajectory of his career.
Moschino’s legacy within Aeffe Group stands resolute, with the brand contributing a purported 70 per cent to the group’s portfolio, despite recent downturns. Ferretti’s strategic foresight shines through Moschino’s retail revitalization, particularly with a new direct focus on the buoyant Asian markets. The house is poised for a new era, navigating through a transformed global retail landscape.
Adrian Appiolaza now steps forward, embracing the monumental mantle left by Franco Moschino and those who followed. With creative vigour, he vows to usher in an era where the theatrical and imaginative spirit of Moschino flourishes, promising to “reopen that window into the world that Franco Moschino opened for all of us.”