This just in from Watches & Wonders 2020: beautiful shapes from Cartier; technical finesse from Vacheron Constantin; Panerai salutes an icon; Montblanc ups the style factor; and IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Hermès focus on their core strengths

Watches & Wonders enters its 28thyear in 2020 with a completely new approach sparked by the onset of COVID-19 earlier in January. In early March, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) cancelled the event, as did all other watch fairs around the world.

But the FHH worked fast to come up with a coordinated digital presentation for its participating brands, making this an e-fair to remember.

As of 25thApril, 12am Singapore time, Watches & Wonders brand partners released their 2020 novelties. Some went ahead with a strong and exciting portfolio, while others were tentative to unveil much more than a modest range of new timepieces.

Here are our top picks from the show:

Watches & Wonders 2020 — Cartier’s Tank Asymétrique features a manually wound Calibre 1917 MC, here in yellow gold with a champagne dial

Cartier

The maison has been on a roll ever since it reintroduced the Cartier Privé line. Reclaiming its leading position with quintessential gent’s watches. Collectors love how Cartier went back to its core values of shapes, elegance, and art. Several iconic timepieces have consistently returned to the Cartier line up. This year the Pasha makes a glorious comeback. Also making big headlines is the Tank Asymétrique and Santos Dumont.

Star of the show: Tank Asymétrique Skeleton

Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Astronomical Striking Grand Complication – Ode To Music

The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph has an extra wide tourbillon display thanks to a new carriage configuration

An incredibly thin 8.1mm case and entirely open-worked dial in the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton

Traditionnelle Tourbillon Lady, Vacheron Constantin’s first ladies self-winding tourbillon

Vacheron Constantin

Covering all, if not most of its bases, Vacheron Constantin offers stunning complications for both men and women.

After reintroducing the Égerie earlier in the year, the manufacture continues with its stalwarts: Overseas, Traditionnelle, and Les Cabinotiers. Incredible feats of technical mastery across all lines assert Vacheron Constantin’s leadership in fine watchmaking. But of course we know that already.

Star of the show: Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split Second Chronograph – Tempo

Montblanc's 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition — Montblanc’s 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition featuring electric blue gradated grand feu enamel

An 1858 Geosphere with a blue dial on grade 5 titanium case

Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph Limited Edition in smoked-tobacco brown

Heritage Monopusher Chronograph with salmon pink dial on stainless steel

Heritage Automatic with British racing green dial on yellow gold

Montblanc

You don’t need to be an actual mountaineer to appreciate what Montblanc has done with the 1858 collection – everyone remembers the Geosphere that is unique to the brand. This year, Montblanc gets inspiration from the ice-blue world of glaciers, running water, and snow-capped peaks. But the sartorially savvy crowd hasn’t been forgotten. A strong lineup of distinctive colours paired with striking details are ready to woo the vintage lovers.

Star of the show: 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 100

Panerai's Luminor Marina Fibratech PAM1663 — Panerai’s Luminor Marina Fibratech PAM1663 introduces a new composite material derived from basalt fibre

Luminor Marina Fibratech PAM1119 takes the SuperLuminova out of the dial and into the strap.

Using an evolved Superluminova called X1, here’s the Luminor Marina PAM1117 in brushed titanium

Luminor Marina DMLS PAM1662 in sandblasted DMLS titanium with Carbotech bezel

Panerai

It’s the year of the Luminor for Panerai, and the brand has taken the word luminosity really seriously. The Italian brand with a Swiss heart also spent a lot of time in laboratories in the past years. After Carbotech, Goldtech, BMG-Steel and DMLS titanium comes Fibratech. A new high-tech composite based on basalt fibre, which apparently is more eco-sustainable – very woke.

Star of the show: Luminor Marina Fibratech PAM1663

Hermès' Cape Cod Martelée — Hermès’ Cape Cod Martelée showcases a traditional jewellery making technique known as hammering

The Arceau Squelette and its smoked sapphire crystal, punctuated by open-worked numerals.

Arceau l'Heure de la Lune — This year, the Arceau l’Heure de la Lune is reinterpreted with meteorite stone dials, such as lunar meteorite as pictured

Arceau Cheval Cosmique combines engraved white gold with mother-of-pearl or blue aventurine (pictured)

Hermès

It’s always inspiring to see how Hermès approaches watchmaking with its artistic and design-savvy sensibilities. This year it’s all about the fine touches, very expressive timepieces, métiers d’art with a creative eye. Both men and women would be pleased with what the French luxury house had come up with. We especially love the Cape Cod Martelée, which is such a simple but sensuous timepiece.

Star of the show: Cape Cod Martelée

Piaget's Altiplano Ultimate Concept — Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept is now a reality after six years of R&D

Piaget limelight gala — Limelight Gala featuring Piaget’s beautiful palace decor on the bracelet as well as the dial, which is also covered with blue enamel

Piaget

A key celebratory moment for Piaget in 2020 is the realisation of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept as a commercial piece. It took them six years of hard work and R&D to achieve this, so mad props to Chabi Nouri and team. Meanwhile in the women’s universe, the maison is having lots of fun “painting” with precious and ornamental stones, combining colour and gold in the most exceptional ways.

Star of the show: Limelight Gala with palace decor and blue enamel

Roger Dubuis' Excalibur Twofold — Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Twofold has an all-white aesthetic featuring a new material known as mineral composite fibre

Roger Dubuis

Go big or go home. This has been the overarching theme for all Roger Dubuis creations every year, and 2020 is no exception. But now you could also add “see and be seen” to the fray, as the creative juggernaut experiments with new processes, new materials, and new expressions of luxury watchmaking. Word of the year for Roger Dubuis? LumiSuperBiwiNova.

Star of the show: Excalibur Twofold

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide — IWC’s Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide with a nautical-inspired rubber strap with textile inlay

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph — Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph on a metal bracelet – a first for the collection

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar — The 44mm Portugieser Perpetual Calendar debuts a new material for IWC called Armor Gold

iwc Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon — Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon in platinum

iwc Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph — Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph also in 18K Armor Gold

iwc Portugieser Chronograph — Portugieser Chronograph with green and burgundy dial options joins the family

iwc Calibre 69355 — With a slimmer bezel that opens up the dial more, both models are powered by Calibre 69355

IWC

A beloved icon of IWC gets a complete overhaul. The Portugieser and its offshoot, the Portugieser Yacht Club, takes the spotlight in 2020. We love how the new Portugieser Chronograph moves closer to its original design, yet is enlivened by bright new colours. The perpetual calendar also re-emerged with a cleaner aesthetic, although the biggest must-see is undoubtedly the Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide.

Star of the show: Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar comes with a newly developed Calibre 759

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic — Master Control Geographic reprises one of the manufacture’s most beloved complications

jaeger-lecoultre Master Control Calendar — A distinctive ’50s style inspires the Master Control Calendar

jaeger-lecoultre Master Control Date — The Master Control Date is offered in either steel or Le Grand Rose Gold

Jaeger-LeCoultre

A ’90s classic takes centre stage, but with touches inspired by the glorious ’50s, and watchmaking techniques from the 21stcentury. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control takes us back to the heydays when the manufacture made very sober, very performance-oriented timepieces for the discerning gentleman.

Star of the show: Master Control Chronograph Calendar

Laurent Ferrier

Stainless sports watches on integrated bracelets have a huge following in the watch community, and now Laurent Ferrier joins the fray with the Grand Sport Tourbillon. At first it seems a little out of character for this classical brand. But as independent watchmakers are often wont to search within themselves for watchmaking inspiration, so has Ferrier recalled his motor racing days at the 24 Hours of Lemans from the ’70s.

A. Lange & Söhne

It’s undoubtedly a quiet year for the German manufacture, with just two key launches, at least for now. The Odysseus is back and goes the way of many luxury sports watches, offering a white gold case and a choice of rubber strap. Meanwhile, the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater might find new fans with its striking blue coat.